27/7/12

60th

Recently I took a transatlantic flight with a well-known Brazilian airline. At Ezeiza, I bought legroom, which was quite reasonably priced considering they used to give it away for free. The Argentine ground crew rep paused, and then asked: “Do you speak Portuguese?” As luck would have it, I do, although I would be the first to admit that it’s quite rusty. When I asked why, the Argentine shook his head. “It’s these Brazilians,” he said. “Their air crews are 100% Brazilian, and are not required to speak Spanish or English. They’re so nationalistic. Can you believe it?”

An Argentine complaining about the nationalism of others. As anyone who lives in Argentina will testify, including a large proportion of locals, nationalism is a very Argentine trait. However, as someone explained to me recently, there is a clear difference between Argentine nationalism and Brazilian patriotism. Brazilians truly love their country and will continually gush forth about its wonders. Argentines, on the other hand, are both cynical by nature and fully aware of their country’s shortcomings – but will not countenance any criticism of their country by someone who is not from there.

Perhaps it’s fitting that these thoughts are bouncing round my brain on the 60th anniversary of the death of a person who, for better or worse, entirely transformed Argentina. Eva Perón’s short life and work have influenced this country for over half a century, and her mystique is a key allure to thousands if not millions of tourists to Argentina on an annual basis. However, her actual role in contemporary Argentina remains as divisive as her revolutionary labour politics and communication techniques were during her lifetime.

Exhibit A was provided last night, with yet another demagoguery-tinged speech by President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, with the portrait of Evita behind her. CFK yesterday announced that the highest legal tender in the country, namely the 100-peso bill, would now carry the face of Evita. Not Perón, her husband, the twice-President and in some respects the reason why she even had a platform to speak from. Evita. In broad terms, this would be the equivalent of putting a key figure of the last century on bills – say, Martin Luther King on a note in the US, or Princess Diana in the UK.

Naturally, this is a highly Marmite decision, and has accordingly split the country – just as the choice of Madonna to play her in Alan Parker’s 1997 film of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical did. However, Evita and her veneration or denigration plays into the hands of nationalists of all ilks, as her image can be skewed to represent…well, pretty much whatever you want. She is a symbol of struggle, an embodiment of virtue, the encapsulation of innocence or the permanent reminder of when exactly Argentina went down the tubes. Depending on who one talks to, she can be any of these things and many more.

That is a key aspect to Evita, and to Peronism. Yesterday, during the events to commemorate her “passing into immortality” 60 years ago, speech after speech was laid at her altar by worshippers of all political stripes – but, as several people pointed out, the majority focused on what she represented, an entirely different thing each time, rather than what she did. What Evita represents, in the eye of the beholder, will always be of greater relevance than what she achieved. That’s why Argentines grimace when troops of tourists file past her tomb in Recoleta each day, where she lies surrounded by the oligarchs who she despised and sought to destroy – only a true Argentine will really understand what she means, or what she has come to mean.

Although we are only seven and a half months into 2012, this has been a year of nationalism. Whether the issue is the 30th anniversary of a war, the 60th anniversary of a death or the veneration of 50 goals by a famous footballer, the message is clear: to the outside world, Argentina is united, taking all comers, especially those who seek to undermine or criticise - because by doing so, we can briefly forget that, on the inside, unity is fleeting, and the future is very bleak.